Sardinia

Sardinia rewards travellers who look beyond the brochure image of glossy Costa Smeralda resorts. The island is large enough to absorb a fortnight of slow exploration, and varied enough that no two days need look alike. Whether you base yourself in a converted farmhouse, a village B&B or a coastal hotel, the experience is shaped by what lies outside the gate: Bronze Age towers, cork forests, mountain gorges and some of the clearest water in the Mediterranean.

An island of layers

Sardinia’s identity has been built over millennia. The nuraghi — truncated stone towers unique to the island — remain its most distinctive archaeological signature, scattered across the landscape in their thousands. Alongside them are Phoenician and Roman remains, Punic necropolises, medieval hill towns and the distinctive Catalan-inflected architecture of Alghero.

Inland, the island turns wild. The Supramonte and Gennargentu massifs offer some of the finest walking in Italy, from the limestone canyon of Su Gorropu to the abandoned village and cave complex at Tiscali. The coast, meanwhile, ranges from the polished glamour of Porto Cervo to the near-empty dunes of the Costa Verde.

Where to stay

Accommodation on the island spans a wide spectrum, and the choice often dictates the rhythm of a trip.

Agriturismi are working farms that take in guests, usually offering home-cooked meals based on produce from the estate. They are particularly rewarding inland, where dinner might run to roast suckling pig, pecorino, cured meats and cannonau wine.

Alberghi diffusi — “scattered hotels” — are a Sardinian speciality: rooms distributed across several buildings in a historic village centre, preserving the fabric of the settlement rather than concentrating guests in a single block.

Residences and aparthotels suit families and longer stays, with self-catering apartments often grouped around a pool or a short walk from the beach. Camping villages along the coast provide a more informal alternative, many with direct beach access and bungalow accommodation.

Tours and itineraries

For travellers who prefer structure, self-drive itineraries of roughly eight to fifteen days cover the island’s highlights at a manageable pace. Typical routes divide between the north — Gallura, the Costa Smeralda, La Maddalena and the granite coast around Palau — and the south, taking in Cagliari, the Costa Rei, Villasimius and the ancient sites of the interior.

Culinary-themed tours combine cooking demonstrations, winery visits and market trips with the island’s archaeological and natural attractions.

Getting out on the water

The La Maddalena archipelago, off the north-east coast, is the classic boat-trip destination, with daily excursions running from Palau and Santa Teresa di Gallura. Snorkelling and diving are popular around Caprera and the Costa Smeralda, where the granite seabed and clear water make for good visibility.

Smaller operators run traditional wooden boats, while larger excursions use motor vessels with shaded decks — worth considering during the height of summer.

Active options

Beyond the water, guided activities include:

• Jeep and hiking combinations into the Su Gorropu gorge and to the Tiscali cave village
• Land Rover tours across the Supramonte
• Coastal walks such as the route to Cala Luna
• Segway and Ape Calessino tours of Cagliari’s historic centre

Practical notes

Sardinia’s interior roads are scenic but slow; allow generous driving times between stops. Summer heat inland can be severe, so walking is best done early or late in the day. Many agriturismi and smaller hotels operate seasonally, closing from roughly November to March, and booking ahead is advisable for July and August, when Italian holidaymakers arrive in force.

The island rewards those who split their time between coast and interior — a few days by the sea, a few in the mountains, and at least one long lunch on a farm.