Isola San Pietro: The tuna island of Sardinia

A Small Island with a Long History

Off the south-western tip of Sardinia, in the Sulcis archipelago, lies Isola di San Pietro. It is the second-largest island in the region after Sant’Antioco, and it has been shaped by centuries of tuna fishing.

The island’s main town, Carloforte, was founded in the eighteenth century by settlers from Pegli, near Genoa. They spoke a Ligurian dialect known as tabarchino, which is still heard on the island today. The community had previously lived on the island of Tabarka, off the coast of Tunisia, where they had worked in coral fishing. In 1738, following an agreement with the Savoy king Carlo Emanuele III, they moved to San Pietro and established a new settlement.

The name Carloforte honours the king who granted them the land. The town retains a distinctive character, with narrow streets and pastel-coloured houses, and its dialect and food traditions set it apart from much of the rest of Sardinia.

The Tuna Tradition

For generations, the island’s economy revolved around the annual migration of bluefin tuna through the waters of the Mediterranean. The islanders used a traditional fishing system known as the tonnara, a complex arrangement of nets and chambers that guided the fish into a final enclosure, where they were caught.

The tonnara was more than a method of fishing. It was a communal undertaking, with specific roles passed down through families, and it shaped the rhythm of life on the island. The catch was processed locally, with the tuna preserved in oil or salt and exported to markets on the mainland and beyond.

San Pietro’s tuna tradition is commemorated each year in the spring, when the island holds a festival dedicated to the bluefin. The event includes food stalls, music and boat trips, and it draws visitors from across Sardinia and further afield.

What to See and Do

Carloforte itself is worth a slow wander. The town’s waterfront looks out over the harbour, where fishing boats and pleasure craft share the quays. A short walk from the centre leads to the rocky coastline, with clear water and quiet coves.

The island’s interior is low and windswept, with scrubland, small vineyards and a handful of beaches. The most accessible is La Caletta, close to Carloforte, while Spiaggia di Punta Nera and the coves around Capo Sandalo offer wilder settings. The lighthouse at Capo Sandalo, on the western tip, is one of the island’s landmarks and a popular spot for watching the sunset.

San Pietro is also known for its food. Alongside tuna, the island produces capers, tomatoes and a local variety of courgette. The restaurants in Carloforte serve dishes that reflect both the Ligurian heritage and the Sardinian setting, including tuna in oil, pasta with pesto and seafood stews.

Getting There

San Pietro is reached by ferry from Portovesme and Calasetta, with crossings taking around thirty minutes. The island is small enough to explore by bicycle or on foot, though a car or scooter makes it easier to reach the more remote beaches and the lighthouse at Capo Sandalo.

The best time to visit is in spring or early autumn, when the weather is mild and the island is quieter. The tuna festival in late May or early June is a highlight for anyone interested in the island’s fishing heritage.