Archaeological sites in Sardinia

Sardinia holds one of the densest concentrations of prehistoric monuments in the Mediterranean, and much of it survives in open country where you can walk right up to it. The island’s best-known remains are the nuraghi — truncated stone towers built from large blocks of rock without mortar, of which several thousand are scattered across the landscape. They date largely to the second millennium BC, when the Nuragic civilisation dominated Sardinia, and they were evidently more than simple strongholds: many stand within settlements, and some are surrounded by villages of circular stone huts.

Su Nuraxi, Barumini

The most celebrated of them all is Su Nuraxi at Barumini, in the centre of the island, and the only Sardinian site inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Its central tower is thought to have been raised around the middle of the second millennium BC, with four corner towers added later and a ring of smaller towers beyond that. Around the keep lie the remains of a village whose huts were rebuilt and altered over centuries. Visits are made with a guide, and the site can be busy in high summer.

Nuraghe Arrubiu, Orroli

Nuraghe Arrubiu, near Orroli in the south-east, is one of the largest of its kind. Its name means “red nuraghe”, after the reddish lichen and moss that colour its stone. Five towers surround a central keep, and the complex is thought to have had as many as nineteen towers in all. Excavations have also uncovered traces of dwellings, pottery and other everyday objects.

Nuraghe Losa, Abbasanta

At Abbasanta, beside the road that crosses the island’s interior, Nuraghe Losa is among the best preserved. It is a single tower of roughly conical form, built of basalt blocks, with three towers joined to it by a walled enclosure and the remains of a village nearby. Because it sits close to the main route between the north and south, it makes an easy stop on a journey through the interior.

Nuraghe Palmavera, Alghero

Near Alghero in the north-west, Nuraghe Palmavera consists of two towers linked by a wall, with a village of stone huts around them. One of those huts is circular and larger than the rest, and is generally interpreted as a meeting place. The site lies within the Porto Conte natural park, close to the coast, and is often combined with a visit to the nearby beach at Le Bombarde.

Tiscali, Oliena

Tiscali, in the mountains above Oliena in the east, is different in character: a Nuragic village hidden inside a collapsed limestone cave on the slopes of Monte Tiscali. Reaching it requires a walk of some hours on footpaths, and the setting is remote and quiet. The huts were built within the hollow of the mountain, which is thought to have offered shelter to communities retreating from lowland settlements.

Nora, Pula

Sardinia’s archaeological record is not limited to the Nuragic period. At Nora, on the coast near Pula in the south, the remains are those of a Phoenician, later Carthaginian and finally Roman city. Excavations have revealed paved streets, baths, a theatre and mosaics, and the site occupies a small peninsula with views out to sea. Finds from the digs are displayed in the nearby museum at Pula.

Tharros, Oristano

On the Sinis peninsula near Oristano, Tharros was founded by the Phoenicians and later passed to Carthage and to Rome. Its remains include a tophet, a bath complex, paved roads and the foundations of temples, set on a narrow neck of land between the sea and the lagoon. The site is exposed and can be windy, but the position is striking, and the beach and nature reserve around it are worth the detour.

Visiting practicalities

Opening hours at Sardinian archaeological sites vary considerably with the season, and many smaller monuments stand on private land or are unstaffed, so it is worth checking locally before setting out. Guided tours are available at the principal sites and are often the only way to enter. Sturdy shoes, water and sun protection are advisable, as most sites offer little shade and some involve rough ground. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons for visiting, when the heat is gentler and the sites are quieter.